Venice - August 18, 2011

After today, we’ll probably never return to Venice in August.  Two out of the three times we’ve been to Venice have been frustrating days. 

Reasons to avoid Venice…

• Getting there: Getting to Venice can be a bit tricky.  If there still spots left, driving to the garage at Tronchetto is convenient, but expensive at 21+ euros for the day, plus the A4 tolls, plus the vaporetto ride (easily 13 euros per person one way).  The hour plus ride from Grisignano di Zocco was ridiculously hot causing us both to doze off immediately once we got seats.

• Getting around: Following the signs “Per Rialto” and “Per San Marco” is great until you are walking in circle, essentially lost in the maze that is Venice

• Sightseeing: Venice is crowded all the time, but even more so in the summer.  Add heat and humidity, and it’s even worse on the streets and vaporettos.

What a romantic cruise -- You, your significant other...and 1000 tourists all taking your picture

• Expensive WCs: In the event that you have to use the bathroom near San Marco (which will happen when trying to stay hydrated in the summer), public restrooms are very expensive here charging 1.50 euros.  Use the 0.80 euro WC at the train station instead.

• Murano: Talk about a bust!  After paying for the vaporetto to the island, we were completely disappointed to learn that the artisans were not working in the furnaces today…and probably not in August.  Sure we saw the famous glass in all the stores, but neither of us enjoys shopping…and we certainly don’t like being insulted by a shopkeeper. Saleman: What are you looking for? Me: Nothing in particular. The response: So you’re going to go have look at everyone’s shop? 

These furnaces are normally busy with people...but NOT in August

The only nice thing we saw in Murano

• St. Mark’s…not our favorite.  Not sure if it is the huge line, the lack of light inside, or the fact that it's a one way street through lots of roped off areas...it just doesn't feel like a real Church.
• Getting home: Apparently lots of people day trip to Venezia from Milano…or a few other stops in between.  There are no seats to be had in the trains unless you are at the platform very early.  1 hour of standing in the hot trains = not fun

Redeeming Features:

• Grom: Cioccolato fondente + caffe = delicious!  I am ALWAYS in the mood for Grom gelato!  NYC has one…now they just need to open one in Boston.

• Grand Canal Cruise: No matter how many times we visit Venice, we’ll always enjoy this vaporetto ride.  It’s much cheaper than a gondola, and just as scenic.  Even with the crowds today I was scored a sweet picture of the Rialto before we went under it.
• Vaporetto: Traveling around on Venice’s boat taxis is so much easier than navigating the city by foot.  Plus, when else can you hop and off a boat to get where you want to go?

• “Sandwich Row”:  Rick’s suggestion for grabbing a quick lunch just a few blocks off Piazza San Marco is right on. At Bar Verde on Calle Delle Rasse, we got fresh sandwiches on foccacia bread for 3.50 euros…a good price in an expensive city.

Unfinished business: Despite our complaints about Venice, we hope to return someday to wander around, visit Doge’s Palace and the Accademia, and of course stop at Grom.  We just need to schedule a trip during the non-summer months.

Hotel Hart

After a frustrating day in Venice it was nice to return to the comforts of Hotel Hart, where the owners are sympathetic to Venice-bashers.  We enjoyed a hamburger and chorizo barbeque followed by delicious individual birthday cakes from the local gelateria.  I enjoyed the cappuccino cake while Joe liked the strawberry shortcake. 

Burgers? In Italy? Must be @ Hotel Hart

Finally...Gluten Free Rice Krispie Treats

Happy Birthday to US!