Bruges - August 15, 2011

Bruges by bike…

While Bruges is a neat old city, its charm is almost lost during the day when it is overrun by tourists.  Some places (Siena) can handle the crowds and still maintain their authenticity.  Others (Bruges, Salzburg) seem like a fantasy land made just for tourists.  Still worth the day trip if you don’t mind fighting the crowds.  Best way to semi-blend in with the locals here?  Rent a bike!  Riding along the cobblestone streets was great once we learned how to navigate the one way streets and by-pass the crowds of tourists. 

Highlights:

• Procession of Our Lady of the Blind: One of the best parts of visiting a new place is experiencing their local festivals and event.  Held every year on August 15^th since 1304, the women of Bruges promised to hold a procession every year to ensure that their husbands returned safe and sound from the war. During this procession they carry the statue of the Virgin and a candle to the chapel of Our Lady of the Blind. The town folk dress in medieval costumes and solemnly parade through the streets with their catapult and rosary beads in tow…talk about tradition! 

• Markt & Belfort: Bruges’ main square is full of life…and people waiting to take a horse and carriage ride!  The impressive Belfort (tower) with its red stripe/blue dragon flag (city of Bruges) dates back to 1300s and can be see from nearly all over the city.  Pretty cool city landmark!  

• Bruges City Walk: Per usual, Rick’s city walk covers the major sites.  One interesting spot…the Basilica of the Holy Blood where a vial of Jesus’ blood (drops that fell from his body while He was on the cross) is supposedly kept.  Tried to get a glimpse of the relic, but the tabernacle’s doors where never open.

 

• De Halve Maan Brewery: This was the classic brewery tour of a family-run business and the complete opposite of Heineken.  Our guide gave the most animated tour ever in English and Flemish.  Still not sure what he said in the entire 45 minutes, but Joe enjoyed the Brugse Zot at the end!  

 (An entire room full of copper!)

• Biking to Damme: Finally a breath of fresh air in an otherwise crowded city!  It felt great to escape the crowds and pedal freely on a well-maintained bike path along the canal to the the town of Damme.  Very picturesque ride with windmills, people fishing along the canal, and views of the Belgium countryside…definitely worth the extra mileage!

•  Carillon Concert at Markt: Nothing like eating more waffles and fries on the Markt while listening to the Belfort’s carillon being played by hand.  We could almost picture the carillonist pounding his fists on the pedals to create each song.  Joe’s got a good point: must be lousy to put on an hour long show without applause because you’re several hundred feet up in the air where no one can see you.  Bravo, carillonist!

Food:

• Pano: Belgium’s version of Au Bon Pain…we don’t normally eat sandwiches for breakfast but the mozzarella/tomato/pesto and the ham/egg/cheese where too hard to resist!
• Waffles: Laurenzino chocolate sauce may have won me over, although I’m still not convinced that the waffle itself was my favorite.  In a brave attempt, I also tried a plain waffle today which turned out to be a cross between fried dough and a soft, warm sugar cookie.  Think I’ll stick to the chocolate!  Note to self: waffle quality is diminished here before closing time.  I guess some things are better left done only 4 times in 24 hours!  Should have gone for one of the crazy flavors staring me down across the street at Gelateria Da Vinci instead.    

 

• Fries: Fries from a cart = tourist trap  fries from ‘t Brugsch Friethuys only slightly better…the ones yesterday in Brussels were WAY better!  

 

• Dumon: No wonder Rick recommends this place….they’ve got his Christmas cards and books right up front advertising his name in return for their ad in his book!  Fortunately, Rick got this one right.  If you can get past the pushy staff and their  “Dis is the one Rick Steve recommends” sales pitch, the chocolates are actually delicious and more reasonably priced than Neuhaus.  Chocolate caramel = amazing!  

 

Unfinished Business: Not much left undone here….except for a longer bike ride past Damme to the Belgium/Netherlands border, and more Dumon chocolate.