Lake Bled - August 22, 2011

Lake Bled

Why is it that we always pick great places to visit when we are short on time?  Although this is definitely a touristy part of Slovenia, we could have easily stayed here for a few days to take in the picturesque lake, local hiking and driving routes, and more conversations with the locals.

Highlights:

• Slovenian People: Everyone we met here was very friendly and loved to talk.  Most people speak some English here since it is taught in schools (starting in 4^th grade) and it is one common language spoken by people in all of its surrounding countries.
• Biking the Lake: This was the perfect way to get around the lake!  We completed the mostly flat 3.5 mile loop twice, partly on the main road and partly on pedestrian paths. 

• Rowing Competitions: Bled is well-known for its international rowing competitions.  There is a top-notch boat house here along with a bleachers for spectators.  Men’s and women’s teams from around the world are already here practicing on the courses marked off by orange buoys all over the lake.  We never ran into any American teams, but I’m sure they will be here.  

• Vila Bled & the ???:  Now a hotel, Vila Bled was once the summer home of the Yugoslave royal family and later of communist leader Tito.  The walls of a first floor ballroom are still decorated with Tito’s Socialist-Realism murals which depict the triumph of the socialist movement after a destructive WWII.  After searching for the murals for several minutes, we finally came across a Slovenian family entering the ballroom with the hotel staff, and followed them in.  Realizing I wasn’t a native, the father of the family asked me if I understood the murals to which I said I had read about them in a book.  When I learned he was Slovenian, and I asked what his interpretation of the murals was, he turned to one of his daughters for help translating.  The youngest and most fluent in English was Tina, who was so excited to meet Americans in person.  When we told her we were from the U.S.A., a huge smile broke out on her face as she exclaimed, “Awesome!”  We were like celebrities to her because she finally had people to practice American English with and tell her about life in America firsthand. We spent the next hour with the F family discussing weather, language, school systems, jobs, healthcare and traveling with Daniel, Daria, Tamaria, and Tina.  What nice people!  They even invited us to meet up with them or stay at their house the next time we are in Slovenia!  Now we’ll have to come back!

• Fun Facts we learned from our Slovenian friends:

Ø      Life was much cheaper in Slovenia before they adopted the Euro.  When asked if they are happy Slovenia uses the Euro, they said like anything it has its advantages and disadvantages.

Ø      Elementary school is called kindergarten in Slovenia.  It lasts for 9 years.

Ø      High school is 4-5 years depending on what program a student enters.

Ø      Slovenian colleges are government funded and cost 1500 euros for students’ families.  Tamaria was hoping to study math this coming year at school.

Ø        The school year starts Sept. 1^st and ends around June 25^th.

Ø      Public healthcare is provided in Slovenia.  A set amount of money is taken out of a worker’s paycheck for healthcare.  When families visit the doctor’s office, there are no co-pays.  A fee does apply for some major surgeries.

Ø      Slovenians learn English in school, but many also watch American movies and TV and read books to improve their English.

• An Hour on Otok: One of Bled’s iconic images is a small island and church in the middle of the lake.  To get there, tourists can swim, rent a row boat or kayak, or take a pletna, Bled’s version of the gondola…a traditional wooden boat covered by a canopy that a man rows on the lake.  Rent our own boat was fun.  Due to the rowing competitions, we were required to take a local child on our boat as a guide.  Ours was an eighth grader who liked the Boston Celtics!  Joe did most of the rowing (15 min. each way to the island).  I took my turn on the way back…my first time rowing since Island Pond many years ago!  The Church of the Assumption on the island is really touristy, but we had to try our luck with an old tradition.   If the Church’s bell rings 3 times from one pull on the bell rope, your wish will come true.  I got it on the first try!  Beautifully painted Stations of the Cross on the back wall of the Church were another highlight.

• Swimming: On a hot day like today, everyone was in thelake.  While the water was refreshing, the bottom was also rocky and mushy, and a bit murky.  Joe will forever associate Bled with swallowing his favorite flip flop.  A 40 minute search yielded no signs of the sandal that got stuck in the mud while Joe was wading.  Everyone else seemed to be having a great time in the lake…we must have picked the wrong spot to swim.  Better luck next time!   

Food

·         Ostarija Peglez’n: Summer specials on the outdoor patio across from the lake were tasty.  I tried tagliatelle with truffles and Joe sampled some kind of fish with potatoes and veggies.  Mozzerella and tomato appetizer was pricey (8 euros) but it hit the spot on a warm night, and was especially good with the complimentary fresh bread served.  Overall a reasonable place for dinner in a tourist town.  Think I would try grilled meat next time!

·         Kremna rezina: Bled’s signature dessert is a cream and custard cake sandwiched between two sheets of pastry.  Our slice from Smon Slascicarna (bakery off the lake) was delicious!

Lodging: Hotel Berc…lovely guesthouse with knotty-pine wood carved ceilings and furniture, and friendly staff located on a quiet street about 5-10 min. downhill walk to the lake.  Very clean, spacious rooms…ours even had a balcony!  The hotel had plenty of bikes for guests to borrow, which we too full advantage of.  Huge pread in the beautiful breakfast room included breads, cakes, fruit, yogurt, cereal, scrambled eggs, bacon, sausages, coffee, and juice.  Wish we had stayed here longer…it was one of our cheapest, but favorite hotels!  Thanks, Rick for the great recommendation.

Unfinished business: More rowing and biking on the lake, a better swim, castle visit, Vintar Gorge, more kremna rezina, and a trip to nearby Lake Bohinj, which is the quieter less-touristy version of Bled.