Day 8: 4 July 2010

Hard to remember that it was the 4^th of July as we ate our not-so-American breakfast of breads, cheese, meat, and fruit at the hotel.  On Lisa’s suggestion, we went to one of the only English Masses in Rome at St. Susanna’s, the American Church.  Although we were hesitant to attend a regular English Mass while we were near the greatest Catholic Churches in the world, it was actually a good choice.  Fr Greg gave an excellent homily about his family’s immigration through Ellis Island and the symbolism of the Statue of Liberty.  Mass ended in typical American fashion with the singing of “America the Beautiful” and coffee hour (American coffee and croissants…no donuts here!) 

Joe and I decided to stick around for the tour of St. Susana’s which turned out to be very informative.  Although St. Susanna’s has only been the American Church since the 20^th century, there has been a Church at this site since the 3^rd or 4^th century.  Early Christians use to secretly celebrate Mass in the area that is now the tombs of St. Susanna and St. Felicity, two early martyrs.  Our American tour guide told the story of these saints’ lives as depicted on the frescoes inside the Church.  St. Susanna was to be married off to a Roman general, which would have meant a life of wealth among the Roman elite.  However, she refused the marriage offer, and when suspected a Christian, she was beheaded under the order of her own uncle Diocletian (the emperor) for refusing to worship the pagan gods.  Susanna is the patron saint of???? Felicity was a early Christian who is the patron saint of parents who have lost a child.  She refused to worship the Roman gods and consequently each of her seven children was beheaded in front of her before her own beheading.  We also heard the story of St. Lawrence, patron saint of cooks.  Another early Christian, the Romans executed Lawrence by grilling him over a scorching fire during which he did not utter a sound of pain.  One more early saint we heard about, who is honored at the Church, was still alive following his grilling. Therefore, he was tied to horses and dragged through the streets until he died.  Beheading, grilling/burning, crucifixion, and execution by gladiators were common consequences for any early Christians caught practicing their faith.  The tour really gave us a good overview of the history of early Christianity in Rome.   

Today we put our 3-day Roma Pass to use to go to Ancient Rome and do Rick Steve’s “Caesar Shuffle” audioguide tour through the Colosseum and Roman Forum.  Even on a second visit (or fourth in Joe’s case) of the Colosseum, the building and its history are still a great take.  The building itself is an impressive design nevermind the platform that the Romans built with 80 trap doors and covered with sand for the entertainment, We all decided we need to see “Gladiator” again soon, and make a return visit someday since the rooms below the arena floor that will be open to the public in Sept. 2010.

Our next stop was the Roman Forum.  Lisa and I don’t think we went here in 2000.  The Forum was impressive, although with the humidity and high temps. It was borderline unbearable in the direct sunlight.  We spent a while walking through the ruins of the basilica (justice hall that Christian Churches were modeled after), the Main Square (where Romulus and Remus were born), the spot where Julius Caesar was burned, the House of the Vestal Virgins (model for medieval convents/monasteries), the Curia (Senate House), and the Rostrum (where orators spoke). Missed the turn for Palatine Hill, where the Roman emperors lived.  Guess we’ll add that to our list if things to see next time!

We were drenched in sweat by the time we finished our tour of the Forum so we headed for the hotel.  Made a quick stop at St. Peter-in-Chains Church to view the chains that held St. Peter, and Michaelangelo’s statue of Moses, that was suppose to be one of his greatest works until he was called to paint the Sistene Chapel.  Finally reached the hotel for a much needed shower before getting dinner near the Vatican.