Day 16: 12 July 2010

Woke up bright and early to the sound of birds chirping and traffic passing on the main road.  Still baffled by the exchange with Grazia the night before, we went about our morning routine and expected her to be waiting for us downstairs.  Instead, we found a breakfast spread waiting for us in the breakfast room/sitting room/library.  Grazia was out in the gardens picking string beans and didn’t seem to care that we still hadn’t checked in.  Joe told her he would run in and grab our passports, and meet her in a few minutes.  Much to our dismay, Grazia was no where to be found when we returned.  We spent a good 30min. looking around in the gardens for her.  All we found were lots of cats, a cage of parrots, dogs, a pony.  When she did appear, she was busy for at least another 30min. with visitors and customers who had come to buy fresh produce.  Apparently there is no such thing as time around here…and that’s coming from us who take time as merely a suggestion.

Once we finally checked in, we walked 10min. to the train station and caught a train to the Cinque Terre.  We decided to start in the town of Riomaggiore, the furthest away of the five towns.  The towns are in the Parco Nazionale Cinque Terre.  Each town is on the water, connected by regional train or seven miles of hiking trials along the water.  This region is known for foccacia and pesto so we sampled foccacia topped with pesto…it was delicious! The weather was ridiculously hot and humid here today, and since Riomaggiore doesn’t have much swimming, we didn’t stay long.

From here, we followed the short coastal path along the Via dell’Amore to the town of Manarola.  Followed Rick Steves walk in the heat along the stone walls of a vineyard above town before dropping into the center.  We couldn’t resist more foccacia here.  The potato and rosemary was great!  Found our way to the rocks on the harbor where everyone was swimming.  There is no beach here so people were just lying out on the boat ramp and rocks.  We grabbed a spot on the rocks near ladder and for the first time, I actually went swimming in the beautiful blue water of the Mediterranean!  You know it had to be really hot if even I went in!  The water in the cove was warm, yet refreshing…and so salty that floating was incredibly easy.  I can actually say I loved swimming here! We couldn’t help grabbing more foccacia and trying farinata topped with pesto (thin piece of chickpea meal baked in a round copper pizza pan) before leaving Manarola.  We’ve been here less than 24 hrs. and I already love the food in this region!

From Manarola, we followed the trail about 35-40min. to Corniglia, the only town sitting above the water.  Took a shuttle from the trail to the town.  Not much here except a nice view and a few shops.  Although each town has souvenir shops, rooms for rent, restaurants, and plenty of German, Italian and American tourists, the towns didn’t feel overrun, resorty, or made entirely for tourism.  In fact, there was still something authentic about them that I can’t quite put my finger on…something we didn’t feel/see on the Amalfi.

Train tickets are good for 6hrs. in one direction so we decided to catch a ride to Vernazza before heading back to Levanto.  Followed Rick Steves’ guide of the harbor as the sun was starting to set.  The trains are pretty efficient here so it didn’t take long to get back to Levanto.  Talk about a deceiving place.  Five minutes past the train station, Levanto comes to life with shops, restaurants, a town square, and then the boardwalk and beach.  There were tons of people out and about tonight.  Decided to try Ristorante da Rino recommended by Rick Steves and Grazia.  Excellent choice…I loved the trofie with pesto (almost look like a plate of small green worms!) and Joe enjoyed the fish ravioli.  For dessert we tried a place Grazia likes.  It was okay, but not our favorite.  From town it was a 15-20min. walk back to Erba Persa.  We were pleasantly full and surprised by Levanto!